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Crackle Glaze has been around for years. It has been and is still used to age walls, cabinets and crafts. What makes it work is often a mystery.
This question comes from a reader that had an unwanted outcome. In fact… their was no outcome at all.
So what went wrong? Read on, my friends and see if I answer her question. If not or if you have other ideas… leave a comment!
Hi there,
I tried to crackle glaze a cupboard yesterday, but it hasn’t worked & I’m not sure where I went wrong. I painted the bare wood with 2 coats of emulsion & let it dry overnight. Then I applied a coat of Polyvine Crackle Glaze and let that dry for an hour. It was dry to the touch, so I painted a coat of lighter coloured emulsion on top, or rather I tried to! As soon as I stroked the brush over the glaze, the wet paint just came off the glaze with every stroke. Do you think the glaze coat wasn’t properly dry, or was the glaze rejecting the paint? Please help!
Kind regards,
Jan
I checked out the website for this crackle glaze and didn’t come up with much of an answer.
The crackle glaze is applied over latex paint and let dry… then another coat (different color) is applied over the crackle glaze. The reaction is supposed to create even crackled two-tone aged effect.
What happens with crackle glaze when it works against you… the crackle lifts with the top coat of latex paint. This creates a globbed up mess that you have to remove and then start the process over again.
From the website I learned the exact directions for using this product.
- Brush on the base coat of “matte” or flat latex paint. Allow to dry thoroughly. The company that makes this product also recommends using a synthetic bristle brush. Not sure why… but they know their product.
- Apply a thick coat of crackle glaze all in one direction. Allow to dry.
- Thin the top coat with water and brush on in right angles to the crackle glaze coat. Thinning is important… as you do not want your brush strokes to grab the glaze. Also… painting on the top coat with strokes that are at a different angle is important. I don’t know why… but this is recommended with all crackle mediums.
For the top coat, it is important to apply the matte emulsion with a loaded brush in one stroke and direction. Do not rebrush – this will spoil the effect. Size and type of cracking will vary with brand of paint and dilution – experiment to obtain the effect you require.
My experience with crackled glaze finishes is:
* Each layer must be dry. Use a blow dryer if you are in a hurry.
* Never go over the same stroke twice with your top coat. This is what tends to lift the crackle under glaze.
* Load up your brush. This technique requires that you NOT be stingy. I loaded up my brush every time I applied the paint. This will prevent dragging.
I hope this little tutorial is helpful. If any of you fabulously creative readers have any other suggestions… please post them in the comments.
Now… let’s go Paint!!
THAT Painter Lady (x’s 2!)
{ 13 comments… read them below or add one }
I am having the same problem, even if I am careful not to go over the same area twice, I get mounds of paint between each stroke. How on earth do you get an even crackle? I have tried waiting until the crackle is completely dry, thinning the crackle medium, even dabbing the top coat on with a stencil brush, all to no avail. Perhaps a paint sprayer? HELP! I know this is possible!
You bet it is possible and you don’t need to invest in a paint sprayer.
My guess is that with each stroke of crackle medium… you may see a thick line of medium build up that was put down at the edge of the brush stroke. Get your self a 1/2″ brush to brush along that thicker line.
This should help you get an even looking coat without making the mistake of going over the original stroke.
Hope this helps! THAT Painter Lady
Is it possible to paint over a crackle glaze gone bad? Or is there something else I need to do first (like sand or prime). I used the Valspar paint and glaze to try to give my entryway a crackle look. It looks terrible. Half the room has the base coat, glaze, and awful looking top coat. The other half has the base coat and the glaze. So, I just want to paint over it with a plain color and forget about the crackle.
MH
Yes it is possible to paint over crackle glaze. But I do think that using primer is your best option. The glaze will bleed through with various shades of discoloration.When you start with a primer… it will kill the ability for anything to bleed through and ruin your fresh new paint.
I’m sorry you had problems with your crackle look painting. It is a cool look , but isn’t one of the easier faux wall treatment to easily create.
Debra
This post has good and valuable information, thank you.
Hi there,
I am trying my hand at crackle glaze for the first time and have been practicing on some scrap wood before I do it on my furniture and cabinets. My problem is that nothing whatsoever is happening. I applied the darker base coat and allowed it to dry overnight. Then (this is all per the Valspar crackle glaze directions) I applied the glaze with a foam brush and allowed to dry for 1 hour, then I applied my top coat (a lighter shade). Nothing happened. No crackling at all. I’ve read online about applying an antique glaze over the crackle glaze, but I don’t see the point of this, because shouldn’t the crackle glaze do the crackling and not need anything else? Any suggestions?? I’ve scoured the internet and am amazed at how many different variations of crackle-finish how-to’s and instructions there are out there. What is the actual, proper order and method to achieve a crackle glaze using a dark base coat and a light top coat??
Thanks for your help,
Lindsey
Hi Lindsey…
I am not a crackle expert by any stretch… I’ve done my share – sometimes Crackle glaze does not cooperate.
I did find some great directions from someone who has used the Valspar crackle glaze.
Click here:
crackle glazepage 1
cracklepage 2
valspar cracklepage 3
I have tried several times to crackle around a faux brick wall I painted in my dining room, without success, may I add!
I thought it was because the crackle glaze I was using was too old and lost its strength or something, so my husband bought new glaze along with a brochure on crackling.
What was causing it not to work was that I was using latex simi-gloss paint on top of the crackle glaze and it will only work with a flat paint.
I am attempting it again with a flat paint, and we shall see if it does the trick for the desired look I am going for.
Hi Michelle~
How odd. I’ve used semi-gloss paint on crackle finish OFTEN and never had a problem with it. In fact I did a whole bathroom …wait…a whole bathroom AND a powder room using crackle finish and semi-gloss latex paint. Hmmm…so weird. So how did the flat turn out? Did that do the trick? Hope it worked out!
Get out there and splash some paint around!
Tawn – THAT Painter Lady
Hi there! I love to design old architectural pieces into beautiful funky aged looking items and have used the Anita’s Fragile Crackle in the past to give a transparent crackle finish to many things so that I could give them an aged look with glaze. The Anita’s Fragile Crackle is no longer manufactured. It was a two step process where you brush on a layer of a clear step one and let that dry then brush on a layer of the clear step two. As step two dried, the cracks appeared and then I would glaze and spray with varnish. I haven’t been able to find a product that gives me the same effect. Do you have any idea what I might use to achieve the same smooth clear crackle finish on painted objects? I appreciate your help!
Hi BJ!
I’m sorry your favorite product is no longer available. I hate that when that happens! How about using a crackle medium and then for the 2nd stage a clear coat of something like MinWax Polycrylic in a matte finish? That should give you a clear smooth crackle.
Hope this helps!
Tawn
I painted a dresser with two coats of semi gloss Valspar Signature pink paint, two coats. I let it dry a long time, like two or three days. Then I put on that glaze and it was waaaay wet and too thick, so let it dry for two days and then rolled on a carefully thin coat and let it dry for two hours. Then I put flat white paint over it. It crackled up real nice. Now I have put the Valspar clear sealer coat on it and I am wondering if I should put a second coat when it dries, or do I varnish over this or am I done when this is all dry?
Kathy -
Sounds good! I think you’re done. You could put a second clear coat over it but it should be fine. Up to you on that extra layer.