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Materials Needed for a Painting Job

by THAT Painter Lady on Friday, November 14, 2008

The most important thing in preparing for a painting job, no matter how big or small, is to be ready and have the right painting materials. It doesn’t matter that the “painting job” is in your own home.

What Are The Proper

Materials Needed For A Painting Job?

Let’s start with what to wear. Professional house painters usually work in overalls and old shoes. Wear something that you don’t mind getting paint on.

If you have a bad back or shoulder, I would not suggest wearing overalls. They can actually hurt you because they restrict the movement in your painting arm.

Go with something comfortable like a t-shirt and sweat pants. You want to be able to move and stretch to get to those hard to reach areas.

Checklist For Painting Tools

Now lets get to the actual materials that you will need for your basic paint job. It is always good to have a checklist to bring with you when you shop for supplies.

Drop Cloths – You will need to protect your floors whether carpeted, hardwood, or tiled. There are several different Canvas Drop Cloth to choose from. I have found that the best one to use that can be used almost anywhere are the ones made out of heavy duty canvas.

I would invest in one that has a tighter weave. They can absorb spills without leaking through to the actual floor.

Stay away from paper and plastic. Wet paint will sit on top and you will (trust me) step in it and track it through the house – not good, especially if you have carpet. Keep in mind that the canvas drop cloths can be used over and over again for years.

5 Gallon Bucket - Use to mix paint or even keep water and a rag in it for when you need to clean-up a paint spill.  Often you will be working in a room that doesn’t have a water tap or sink. This is like having a portable sink.

I use two – one for clean water and one to drop in paint brushes/rollers – rags and to clean off my hands after they are covered with paint.

Bucket Seat – This isn’t a necessity… but it sure is handy!

When you are painting down at floor level – your knees will start to ache. I found it so much easier to have something to sit on and then lean over to reach floor level.

This handy little  Bucket Seat also has a few storage areas under the snap on lid. These are good for sponges and all those little “parts” like switch plates and screws. So annoying when they get lost!

UPDATE! I Got this little gem from Santa this year! I’m am forever grateful to the designer of this little “cart”. (and so is my back)

I just can’t say enough about this product.  It’s a “Good Thing”… as Martha Stewart would say.

You can read my full review of Racatac Kneeling Sitting Creeper here:

Review Racatac Sitting Creeper

Ladder with tray – This is self explanatory.

You will need a ladder for the areas that you can’t reach like ceilings and above windows and doors. Plus – the tray has an “indent” perfect sized for paint cans or trays.

This is my absolute favorite ladder for almost every paint job. Three-Step Folding Stool with Utility Tray

A really smart cookie designed this product.

It’s a hook called The Painter’s Assistant that you can attach to the ladder to hold your paint can or bucket, etc.

Just be careful that the can does not make the ladder top heavy and cause it to tip over when not on the ladder.

Stir Sticks – Most paint suppliers will provide you with paint stirrers when you buy paint.

The paint store shakes up the paint while they mix it, so it is not necessary to stir the paint if you are going to use the paint the day that you buy it. But if the paint is sitting for a few days, you will want to make sure you stir it well.

Roller, Roller Skins, Paint Tray - Using a roller to paint your walls is the best choice. There are different naps available. You will need to read the roller skin packaging to figure out which one is the best for the type of paint that you will be using.

Cleaning Rags – These always come in handy when cleaning up. They are also great to clean off the actual paint can if you are dumping the paint into a paint tray. You can also use them to wipe off your hands periodically. It is very important to keep your work environment clean so that way there is less possibility of making a mistake.

Spackling Compound – You will need this in order to fill the holes and small imperfections in the surface.

You can buy Spackling Paste in a small container.

The material usually dries quickly so it can be sanded within an hour.

Tip: You should always… always… always use a primer over anything that has been spackled. You can’t fix it easily once you paint over it. The paint will always dry a different (slightly) sheen and the “patch” will be visible.

Trust me on this one… I have learned this tip the hard way.

A Putty Knife can be used to remove old paint or to touch up with spackle / joint compound if you have small holes or other imperfections. It is best to take care of these things before you start painting.

Remember if you do any repairs they will need to be spot primed. The spackle will show through if you don’t.

Sandpaper – There are several different grits that you can purchase ranging from extra fine to course. Use coarser grits for rough sanding and the smoother grit for smooth sanding. You will need a fine grit sandpaper to sand spackle or putty to make it smooth before priming.

Razor Blade / Utility Knife – You can use an actual flat razor blade to remove dry paint from glass. But my favorite use for a utility knife is to cut along the edge of my painter’s tape so when I remove it, it has a nice clean line.

Painter’s Tape – All painters have a different approach when they prep for painting. Some use Painters Masking Tape, and some don’t. When doing a faux paint finish, painter’s tape is a must.

You will need to protect the trim, baseboards, ceilings, etc. from getting the glaze on them. If you are just doing a straight painting job and you have a steady hand, you may choose to just cut in and not bother with the painter’s tape. It is really up to you.

Brushes – Don’t skimp when buying brushes. The cheaper ones will only cause you frustration, because the bristles will come out on your painted surface.

The best brush to get is an angled 2.5″ brush. I like the Cub Angle Brush. You can use this on trim, windows, doors, and even for cutting in the area between the ceiling and the wall.

Make sure you clean your brushes thoroughly after each use.

Screw Drivers – You need both a Phillips head and a flat head.

These are important to have because you will need to use them to remove switch plates and outlet covers.

This little Screwdriver W/ Charger drops into the tool case so it’s always handy!

Speaking of “Tool Bucket”… I have a favorite one that I used for years.

Bucket Boss  GateMouth Jr. Tool Bag

I tried one of those canvas bags with wheels… nice for my back, but it kept tipping over. So I went back to my long time favorite.

So, those are just a few materials needed for a paint job . You will find that the more prepared you are the smoother the job will be.

Oh, and don’t forget – Keep your workspace clean! Keep your supplies in one spot in a bin where you can easily see everything. If you find that the room is starting to get cluttered with all of your supplies, stop for a minute and tidy up.

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Plaster Faux Finish with Joint Compound?

by THAT Painter Lady on Sunday, July 27, 2008

I am trying to get a venetian plaster look in my house. I wanted to try to use drywall mud to create the texture with deeper / thicker results and I am not sure now how to paint it. Does one have to use the plaster in a can to achieve this look or can I paint over the drywall finish with a product that leaves the darker colors behind and the lighter tones to the surface? ~Rob Paulin

The above picture is of the Old World Plaster Finish that I did a few years ago. www.surfaceswithpaint.com

This is my favorite and most popular finish as a professional. I believe this is what you are trying to achieve with the lighter tones on the surface and the darker tone in the recessed areas.

I prefer NOT to use drywall mud for this finish because you will need to prime it before painting. You also run the risk of moisture getting into it when you start painting, and glazing.

Behr actually makes a texture paint that comes in 2 gallon buckets in both smooth and sand finishes. This can be applied to the wall with either a roller or a trowel. Here are the steps that you will need to follow in order to achieve this finish.

1. Apply Plaster – apply to the wall with a 6″ putty knife, pat the wet plaster with a trowel, and knock down with your 6″ putty knife. This is what gives the plaster pattern & texture.

2. Sand - this step is optional depending on how smooth you want your plaster. I like to spot sand areas where you can see lines left from the trowel. Be sure to wipe away the dust that is left from sanding, with a rag.

3. Paint – you can use any color (light to medium tone). I use 2 coats of latex paint. There is no need to prime with this plaster. Let it dry overnight.

4. Mix Glaze & Paint – This is the fun part. You will need a dark color. Don’t be afraid to pick a dark color, because you will be mixing it – 1 part paint to 3 parts glaze. You will also be washing it off with water, so the glaze will lighten up a lot.

5. Apply Glaze – Use a chip brush and apply in random strokes in a 2 -3 ft section.

6. Wash Glaze In – Have a bucket of water ready, dip a big kitchen sponge into the water, ring out until damp and then wash the glaze into the wall.

7. Wash Glaze Off – Wash out your sponge, ring out the water, and then gently wash off the surface of the wall. The light base color will show through leaving the darker glaze color in the recessed areas of the plaster finish.

I hope this helps. Please keep us posted on how it goes. ~ Dawn

Venetian Plaster Othello

4 Piece Set Plaster Trowel Set

Best Look Faux Finish Glaze

Woolie  Lambwool Faux Appl Tool

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