If you haven’t signed up for the “7 Common Beginner Faux Finishers Mistakes” lessons that you get for free when you sign up for the newsletter… you might not understand this question:
Hi Debra,
First, thanks so much for the “seven” mistakes of faux paining.
I have already made one of the mistakes & that is, I put the glaze directly on top of a flat base paint, then my top coat (top coat rec. for such by Sherwin Williams store). Only a very little of the final finish crackled. So, now, I have to start over.
My questions are: do I now add a coat of my flat base coat, or can I skip this coat & add my regular eggshell top coat… before applying a coat of glaze, then followed by my top coat rec. by Sherwin Williams.
I might add that my top coat (made for the crackling & rec. by Sh. Williams) is a deep brick red, so because of this, I may need to begin my process again with my flat base coat, then the eggshell regular coat before the glaze, etc.
Your feed back would be very much appreciated.
I asked Dawn to answer this question… she is amazing! I begged her to start sharing her knowledge with you… and she finally agreed. (She is very pregnant and busy with her mural and faux painting business).
If you haven’t seen the pictures of her work yet… click here: Dawn’s Children’s Murals
Here is Dawn’s Answer:
Because I don’t know what exactly you are trying to accomplish and on what you are painting, so I will answer as if it were a wall. If the final finish did not crackle the way you would’ve like it to, you most likely need to start over in the following steps –
1. base coat
2. crackle medium
3. top coat
If you are looking for a professional and flawless final finish then the wall may need to be sanded, skim coated with joint compound, sanded again, and then primed before starting the crackle process again.
Crackle can be very temperamental depending on the temperature and humidity in a room. Try to work in a room that is not too hot and not too cold (between 55 and 85 degrees).
You cannot expect perfection from this finish. I always suggest that you do samples first before attempting any finish.
Be sure to look at it in different lights at different times of the day. Sometimes colors can change and you may find that it does not look good when the lights are dimmed.
I try to do a few samples with slight variation in color so I can choose the best out of all of them.
The outcome of crackle can change with how heavy it is applied, the direction you apply it with your brush or roller, and also the type of crackle medium that you use. Be sure to allow the crackle medium to set according to the directions on the container.
When applied thicker you will get larger cracks and when applied thinner, you will get smaller cracks. Sherwin Williams asks that you allow the medium to set between 2-4 hours, until no longer tacky.
Once the top coat is applied (preferably overnight), be sure to work quickly and try not to overlap your strokes. This may cause the paint to pull away in areas and it can become a muddy mess.
A gorgeous way to finish a crackled furniture piece is to apply a thin coat of stain, wash it on with a rag and wipe it off. When everything is completely dry for more than 24 hours you can then apply a finishing coat of varnish or polyurethane.
I hope this has helped you and maybe answered a few of your questions.
Dawn….
Dawn Papandrea-Khan
Surfaces with Paint
(845) 669-9093
Website: www.surfaceswithpaint.com













{ 1 comment… read it below or add one }
Thanks so much Dawn for your time in answering my questions concerning crackling. I am now trying the process on a very small wooden door … before beginning anything further to correct my problem.
Thanks, Mary Chrestman