I wonder why the use of crackle medium has suddenly increased?
The magazines are full of modern, retro style furniture and crisp, clean painted walls… but if you are anything like me, it just doesn't suit our style. Vintage anything with a bit of wear and tear is always more appealing to me.
I have gotten loads of questions about the use of crackle medium… all of them from creative types who are not having any luck with the products. I guess all of you with success stories are not sharing with THAT Painter Lady. 
Here is the latest question from a frustrated DIY crackle painter:
I'm trying to use crackle medium for the first time and i just can't make it work.
The first time I messed it up I realized I was using glossy instead of flat- the topcoat just beaded here and there and didn't crack or even go on smooth.When I realized what the problem was, I got 2 colors of FLAT latex to try again with on the same wall.
I sanded down the wall and put a basic primer on it (not oil-based I don't' think), then did 2 coats of my new flat base color. Next I slapped the crackle medium here and there since I only wanted the crackle effect here and there. I used a sponge brush to do this, then I used the sponge roller (a nap roller i think it's called) to start spreading the top color a couple of hours later. It's still just beading up though, like it did with the glossy paint. So what am i doing wrong? I tried not to over stroke like the directions said, but if i don't the paint doesn't cover all over like it should, and there's certainly no cracking.
I've been spending quite a bit of time, effort, and money on all this! Any help you can offer would really be appreciated! thank you! -katherine
Make sure you have followed all the directions given in the article I placed here:
- A sponge brush or sponge roller should not be used.
- When using a roller, load up the roller with paint and make one stroke over the crackle area. When you go over the crackle medium more than once it causes the medium to lift or pull off.
- The paint over the crackle areas should go on as evenly as possible. Using a roller can cause problems, but it is possible.
- If the paint is beading up on the crackle medium areas then the top coat paint is the wrong sheen. What do the manufactures directions call for?
- If the area doesn't begin to crack within a very short period of time… then the product is probably old.
Crackle glaze on walls is tricky business, and does take patience.
I hope these tips have helped some.
Debra
{ 1 comment… read it below or add one }
I am a professional faux finisher and did the crackle technique inside of Harrah’s casino in New Orleans. Several very long bars and doors including a freight door was done in crackle. Before my partner and I arrived in New Orleans from Orlando, Fl., we purchased many containers of crackle medium and took it with us. We found out though that this was a poor choice. We washed it off and decided to go to the nearest Home Depot and bought out all of their leather hide glue. We applied this glue over the black lacquered finish on the bar tops and fronts and let it dry completely. We then rolled flat, off-white latex in sections, stood back and watched the magic crackle appear.
When the latex dried and cured, we brushed on clear coat tinted with raw umber. I swear by using glue instead of a formulated crackle medium and now that Gorilla glue is on the shelves, this stuff works better than anything else.
The steps to a successful crackle finish are: 1. prime the surface 2. paint a base color (latex will do).Note: you will want to use a color that will show through the cracks.3. Brush on glue as evenly as possible.4. Allow the glue to dry completely.5. Roll or brush on a latex top coat in ONE direction only. 6. Allow to completely dry. 7. If you want to add more interest and/or aging to the crackle finish, have a clear coat tinted with the color of your choice. If you want a really old finish, go darker in some areas. Never ‘age’ crackle with a ‘wash’ made with water. Use a clear coat or an artist’s glaze.