How to Prepare a Room for Painting

by THAT Painter Lady on Tuesday, December 30, 2008

Preparing a room is sometimes even more important than the painting job itself. If the room is not prepared properly it can double the time that you spend doing the actual job.

Here are a few important steps to consider when getting ready to paint.

1. Clear the room – It is easier to work in a room that is clear of clutter.

  • Remove everything off of the walls
  • Remove curtains & curtain rods (if possible)
  • Remove outlet covers & switch plates. Be sure to label them so you know where they go later on Also, keep the plates & screws in a ziploc or small bucket so they don’t get lost.
  • Move all furniture to the center of the room and cover with sheets. If you are concerned about possible paint seeping through, you may want to cover with plastic first.

2. Clean the Room

  • Vacuum carpets
  • Sweep & Mop Floors
  • Wipe down baseboards / woodwork with damp cloth

3. Cover the floor with drop cloths – The best drop cloths are the ones made out of heavy duty canvas. You may need to tape them down on a highly glossy surface in case of slipping. I like to do this anyway. I actually tape the drop cloths together where they meet and also along the baseboard trim. It keeps everything from moving around I don’t need to worry about moving my ladder around.

4. Wash the Walls – Plain old soap and water is the best to use. Dust, cigarette smoke, candles, fireplace soot, etc all leave a residue on the walls. This needs to be thoroughly cleaned off so the paint will have the best adherence to the wall.

5. Patch Holes – fill in nail holes, dents, and nicks in the wall with spackling compound

  • Use a putty knife to press the spackle into the hole or crack. Wipe off the excess so it is smooth. Let it dry and then spackle again if necessary. Spackle has the tendency to shrink when it dries, so it is always good to add a second coat.
  • Once completely dry, sand with a fine grit sandpaper, sanding sponge, or sanding pad
  • Use a tack cloth to wipe off all the dust. This is extremely important. If you don’t do this it can cause problems with your paint adhering properly in the future.
  • Prime the areas that you Spackled. This is also very important. If you don’t do this, you will see the areas that were Spackled through your paint.

Keep in mind that the above process for spackling is only for minor repairs. If you have larger problem areas, I would suggest hiring a professional.

6. Caulk – joints, cracks and seams in the surface before painting. Make sure the caulk is completely dry before painting.

7. Masking Tape

  • Using Masking Tape , tape off the baseboards, woodwork, ceilings, etc.
  • It is especially important when doing a faux finish to protect these areas
  • Do not use anything other than tape that has been specifically made for this use. It should be low tack, otherwise it will rip off the paint underneath it.
  • Take your time when applying the tape. You want clean crisp lines when the tape is removed


You are now ready to start painting!

Frog Masking Tape Frog Masking Tape - One of my favorite “new” painting tape products.

Furniture Sliders
I purchased two sets of these furniture sliders when I started all of my remodeling projects. These saved my back (and hubbies back too).  Cheap and so worth it! The work on carpet and tile for most furniture.

Canvas Drop ClothThis canvas drop cloth is a bit different than others. It’s only 4 feet wide (15 feet long). These are easier to handle and are perfect to use when painting walls. Of course… if you’re painting walls – you will want full room coverage.

If your still using those cheap plastic film style dropcloths… THAT Painter Lady says “STOP IT”!!!.  One or two drop cloths are an investment. I’ve used mine over and over for years. The landfills are already filled with enough plastic.

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{ 3 comments… read them below or add one }

Keri Bloom Monday, January 5, 2009 at 12:13 pm

I am doing a mural in a public building. I will need to do the mural on panels which will be installed. What type of wood, masonite etc panels do you recommend and would you just prime them with kilz first? What thickness of panels are best? I have a concern about warpage.
Thanks!
Keri

Kim Johnson Monday, January 4, 2010 at 5:41 pm

Debra,

I am putting a colorwash on my walls in my kitchen.
We are going with a Tuscan color scheme. We chose a color from Valspar Faux Collection. Our base color is a spicy mustard color with two different glazes. The glaze colors are brilliant red and copper. The instruction that I have is to apply the glaze with a colorwash brush in small “X” patterns. That part seems pretty simple, my question though is which glaze should I apply first…or does it matter? I’m guessing the red would go on first and then follow with the copper. Am I on the right track? Any suggestions.

THAT Painter Lady Tuesday, January 5, 2010 at 9:29 pm

Kim… you are on the right track.

It seems as if you have to apply one color and then the other. When actually it’s better to
add the colors at the same time. Use two brushes. And put a few x’s on the wall off one
color and then a few of the other. alternate and blend before the glaze dry’s. Keep working
the entire wall corner to corner ceiling to floor.

If you stop in the middle you might have an exaggerate demarcation.

Good luck and have fun!

Debra

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