How To Fix Faux Finish | Red Leather Faux Painted Walls

My Faux Wall Looks Terrible

The emails have been flying on this one.  The Faux Leather Wall Finish did not go as planned. Here is the original call for help:

 Hi Debra!  I painted our master bath a beautiful red (three coats), then faux painted with the Woolie a top coat, raw umber glaze, in an attempt to achieve a beautiful deep red leather look.  It looks terrible!  I ended up with a washed out muddy looking brown over the red, with no textured look of leather at all.  What do I do now?! Thanks for your help!  Sarah

Here is my first reply:

Hi Sarah,
Oooops, I am so sorry you are have problems achieving a red leather look  on your walls.  If I had pictures It might be helpful. My first question is… do your walls have a sheen to them? Also, it takes very little brown to create a texture look. I need more information to be helpful.   Please tell me what  products you used and how you used the woolie. Be a descriptive as possible.  I will try to help you resolve this issue ASAP.  Debra  THAT Painter Lady.com

Sometimes I can visualize a problem wall without pictures if I can get enough of an explanation concerning the products and the technique used.

Sarah did fire off a reply with all the information I needed:

Hello and thanks for responding!  I'm hoping there is something I can do to salvage my mess!  I used a satin latex paint which is according to the Woolie's instructions. 

The walls have a slight sheen, not too shiny. 
I mixed a raw umber (deep chocolate) satin latex paint with glaze, 4 parts glaze to 1 part paint, 4 cups glaze to 1 cup paint, per a faux paint book's instructions. 
I could not find colorant to buy like your website says, but the paint guy dipped the stick in his colorant and we matched it.  In total we used 2 1/2 cups of the glaze mixture in the master bath which is 262 square feet of wall.  That works out to be 1/2 cup of the raw umber in the entire room.

We brushed with a brush a little of the glaze on the wall, working in about 3' x 3' sections, enough glaze to work with it seemed, but maybe it was too much.  It seemed when we put less glaze on, it wasn't enough to work with, or it wasn't enough to spread around with the Woolie.  We tamped the Woolie up and down like the lady in the Woolie video! I'm thinking I might be able to save it by mixing my red with glaze, not sure how much of each to mix, then doing another top coat, perhaps thistime using crumpled plastic.  The red is called Spanish Tile, very nice. The Woolie seems to give more of an appearance of sponging rather than leather. 

Thanks so much for helping me!!!  Sarah  

And here is the faux painting leather answer :

 

  1.  Hi,
    Okay… here are my thoughts on this:

    First… using paint in the glaze instead of universal tints is probably why your walls look like they have mud on them.  

    It would take a long explanation of why, but in short… the glaze doesn't resemble stain.  In the old days… we used to use linseed oil, turpentine and something like shoe polish to make our glazes.  Smell!  oooh weee!

    When you add paint to a faux glaze you are adding pigment… in other words it is something that will cover over the underling color, instead of letting it show through. It's like using whiteout on paper instead of using white glue.
    When the white out dries… the ink you covered up isn't showing through. But if you used white glue to cover the ink… you would still be able to see the ink after the white glue dries.  If you add something like ink to the white glue it would still be transparent after it dried… it's just now a color. Like stained glass.  

    Now I like to use water based products such as faux glaze medium because they don't smell.  But… we still need the same results. But… fuax glaze in a water base dries quicker and so it doesn't spread and mooooosh around as easily.  

    So… back to your problem.

    The brown on the walls is now here to stay. So you need to go over the top of it to camouflage it.  Your idea of going over the top with the red is going to work.

    My suggestion would be:

    1.Use the red paint full strength.  I would take the Woolie or Sponge and wipe on the red paint.  I know it will look like a sponge painting technique if you just pat, so I smoosh.  Which means pat on the paint in an area 3' or so and then go back and wipe with the same woolie.  You are not trying to cover every inch of the previous brown areas, just most of it.  
    2. When that is dry… Now you should have a blotchy wall.  And you will need to smooth out the darks and lights… or reds and browns.  A very sheer coat of red glaze will do the trick.  Mix 5 parts glaze with 1 part red… add water if it's thick.  This can go on with a brush or one of those mini rollers.  The red will fly if you use a roller.  So I like to use a cheap brush and but it on starting in a corner and using quick crosshatch strokes.  This goes really fast, so don't worry about how much time it will take.

    3. Now when that is dry…. Go back to your brown glaze mixture and do the plastic wrap technique you were talking about.  You could dip a balled up piece of plastic wrap or bag into the glaze and then use it on the wall as if you were sponge painting.  But I like to roll the glaze mixture on the wall and then lay a piece of plastic over the glaze… pat… and then remove. This will give you the faux leather effect I think you are looking for.  Get a large piece of very thin plastic from the hardware store.  

    Hope this helps

    Let me know if I can help more,
    Debra

Click Here to read Part 2 Fix Faux Leather Walls

Here is the original article for Red Leather Faux Painted  Finish

 
 
Discussion

What do you think? Leave a comment. Alternatively, write a post on your own weblog; this blog accepts trackbacks.

11 comments
1.
On January 7th, 2008 at 5:07 pm, colleen archuleta said:

I have been a professional faux finisher for the last twenty years. I like this web site because I always like to read about what others are doing and I can always learn something new. Anyway, about the faux leather look or wall staining….Wall tints aren’t always readily available, so I’ve adapted very well to using water based wood stains mixed with glaze and putting a clear matte finish on the cabinets after the project is completed. I use the cheapest fattest brush I can find and stipple the glaze on and blot the excess with a cheesecloth. The more you stipple the finer the texture. Be random. The wood stains are perfect for aging or doing a leather look. One can also have the stain custom matched in many colors for a beautiful color on color look. American Walnut mixed with some Colonial Pine and plenty of glaze works for me most times. Good luck.

2.
On January 10th, 2008 at 7:53 pm, THAT Painter Lady said:

Colleen

Thanks for the great advice.

We love to hear how others are overcoming faux painting problems with new techniques and products.

Debra
THAT Painter Lady

3.
On February 19th, 2008 at 12:40 pm, Elaine said:

I think I know what the problem is with the gal that wrote in about the Leather Faux Finish. I have read in many books about buying “universal colorants”, etc. and every time I have tried to buy them (Lowe’s, Home Depot, Menards) the employees either never heard of what I am talking about or they tell me the colorant can be bought (it’s what they use to color paints) but they really don’t dry and would be useless for what I am trying to do. In other words, I always hit a DEAD-END. So I think all of us need AN ACTUAL BRAND NAME of the product and EXACTLY where we can purchase it. Thank you.

4.
On February 19th, 2008 at 7:59 pm, THAT Painter Lady said:

Hi Elaine…
I do understand that it can be tough to find the Universal Colorants. Some sales people are just ignorant and generally unhelpful.

Did you know you can buy Universal Colorants or Tints on Amazon? Yep… even they have better customer service and great selections than some of the big box stores.

Now… I will give you the brand names of the products I have purchased at Home Depot.

The brand is ProLine Universal Colorants… and the come in 16 oz bottles, which is more than anyone could use up in a lifetime!

If the paint guys can’t find it… (which is a good bet) ;) Then go up to the customer service desk and ask them to look up the product and see if it is stock. If they say yes… which they should… ask them to direct you to the exact spot where it is on the shelves.

Gee…. you would think it would be easier to find… huh?

Good Luck in your search… let us all know how your shopping turns out.

Debra

5.
On February 19th, 2008 at 8:24 pm, Elaine said:

Debra,
Thank you for your quick reply. I did see that Amazon carried colorants but it looks like the “6-pack” is ALL one color and they seemed foolish to me. You might want to check it out. I will go to Home Depot this week and let you know the results!
Elaine

6.
On May 7th, 2008 at 8:07 am, Elaine said:

Debra.
I went to Home Depot and they have no idea what I’m talking about. I went to the customer service desk and the gentleman spent 15 min looking for Universal Colors. He couldn’t find them on Home Depots website and only found them at a Texas site. So if you bought them at Home Depot, I don’t know how or where?????? It’s really become a problem and a headache! Now, I’m just wondering if a person couldn’t just use those “acrylic” colors that are in the craft sections of stores such as WalMart or Michaels. They’re only a few dollars and I don’t know why they wouldn’t work? I would think they would allow you to play around with tinting latex paint, etc. What do you think????

7.
On May 7th, 2008 at 1:29 pm, THAT Painter Lady said:

Home Depot and Lowe’s are such a pain… they just don’t have a clue of the profitable product category Universal tints would be for them.

So… the solution.

One. Amazon.com offers paint tints online for cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_hi?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=tints+all&x=0&y=0

Two. The craft paints have to many fillers for this to work correctly. The idea posted above is a good alternative. Water based stain used with glaze should work just perfect.

As a side note… I have always found the tints in my local hardware stores… but I always have to search around and find them myself. The guys at the counter just look at me like I have no clue what I am talking about.

The fact that I have been a painter for several of their lifetimes doesn’t seem to mean a thing. :)

8.
On July 28th, 2008 at 12:12 pm, Chantal said:

Would using a gold metallic color on red walls to tone it down work? or maybe use a crackle paint effect?

9.
On July 30th, 2008 at 5:33 am, THATPainterLady-Dawn said:

Hi Chantal, check out this recent post on “How To Tone Down Bright Colored Walls”
http://www.thatpainterlady.com/how-to-tone-down-bright-red-walls/ (copy and paste address into your browser).

10.
On August 6th, 2008 at 8:35 pm, Wendy said:

Hi. I may not have but 10 years experience, but I can offer a couple of things to this thread :)

My husband is a painter by trade, but he does a lot of other trades as well. I went to a faux school several years ago to help him with some of the new faux requests. It was helpful to have a husband who knew something about paint :))

To add to the discussion on “tints”. We purchase ours at Kelly Moore Paints, but Monarch also has them. We just get them refilled at the paint store when empty. They do come in a rack of 8 (I think) and we use them also to tint stain and paint for jobs, not just for faux. We have even used them to tint putty! I can’t imagine not having them. It has been my experience that using tints to get the glaze color I want (if I can’t get one premixed) gives me more drying time and more transparency. This just means that it’s more “clear” and not as “muddy” as adding paint to my glaze. I’ve tried a lot of different glazes on te market. Some are pretinted, some are not. There are some good premixed ones available at Lowes and Home Depot. I like the Umber pre-mixed glaze from Lowes and also, their metallic ones (which I tint other colors with my tints…works SO well :)

I have done the red-leather look, also. Finding the right red is important. I used the Umber glaze from Lowes and did a “rag-off” affect…leaving it on very light.

To fix this? I would recommend re-rolling the walls and doing it the way I explained. It has been my experience that it is “less work” to just re-roll the wall and do it differently ;) That’s my two-cents…or whatever you think it’s worth!

Wendy

11.
On August 6th, 2008 at 8:52 pm, THAT Painter Lady said:

Wow Wendy,

You are a wealth of information! I am so glad to have you helping with those that are looking for answers and just need a nudge in the right direction.

Thank you for your helpful comments about tints. They are such a useful tool… don’t know what I would do without them. :)

Debra THAT Painter Lady

Leave a Reply