Have you ever wanted to update your laminate counter tops with something…well…NOT laminate? BUT…that price tag on granite and marble is just a little overwhelming? Well, there is an option. PAINT!! Until you can save up for the real thing. Here’s a question we got:
Hi Debra & Tawn -
We are thinking about painting a Faux Granite on our laminate counter tops. Does this work and do you recommend?
Thanks, Thomas
Hi Thomas,
What a great way to update your kitchen! Yes, it DOES work and yes, you can paint laminate counter tops. Here are a few step-by-step instructions:
1. Clear your counter of all items & debris. You will not be able to use it for at least 6 – 8 days. Set up your coffee station elsewhere. 
And plan on eating out for a week so you don’t accidentally mess up your hard work right in the middle of the process!! Don’t even think of using the kitchen faucet for at least 10 days! Cover it up and tape it off so you don’t forget.
2. Sand the counter with steel wool or medium grit sandpaper; 100 – 120 grit. You don’t have to sand it “HARD” but definitely not gentle either. A nice medium strength should do the trick. You aren’t trying to sand off the entire laminate surface! 
You just want to remove glossiness. You need the counter top “roughed up” a little so the paint 
sticks.
3. Then clean the counter with TSP to really get it clean. This also helps remove the gloss, but be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. You will need to wear safety gloves so you don’t get it on your hands. Rinse it well. When I say “rinse well”, I mean really well. Maybe twice.
4. Fill any holes & cracks that are in the surface of your counter top with spackle. I like Dap CrackSHOT Spackling paste because it is really easy to apply and it has GREAT paintability. It has a creamy texture that applies smoothly, dries hard and sands easily. AND it won’t shrink!
5. Sand any “lumps” you may have created with your spackle. We want a smooth – I mean FLAT – surface to work on when you are done with this step. It should have a slight “rough” or “course” feel to it, but not any lumps or bumps along the way. Wipe it all off when you are done with a nice clean damp cloth to get any of the “dust” off you created by sanding your spackle.
6. Tape off your counter with painter’s tape. You want to limit where you get paint and in doing this process paint is going to get everywhere. The sink, the side of the fridge, the floor… Cover it all up! So, tape off everything you don’t want paint on. Walls, backsplash, stove, refrigerator, sink, etc. And make sure the tape edges are sealed down to the surface. 
7. Time to apply a good Primer Sealer (Kilz, Zinsser, etc). This will prepare the surface to accept the paint. Use a small roller and go slow so you don’t get any bubbles. Let it dry thoroughly. By thoroughly I mean OVERNIGHT! You have to let that stuff cure!!! Also, I prefer water based primer to avoid the stink factor!
8. Now…the NEXT DAY…remember…you let it dry over night?… So, the next day you need to sand it again. Use a “very-fine” grade sandpaper and – lightly this time – go over every single bit of the counter. You want to end up with a clean – smooth counter. Wipe it off again and let it dry. 
NOW, you’re ready to paint. Use a roller for your base coat. Oil based paints are really the best choice (remember to use an oil based primer, too, if you use oil based paints) but…I don’t like the smell factor. So I use regular ol’ latex house paints and acrylic craft paint. Yeah…those little paints for doing crafts! Americana or DecoArts are great and come in a WIDE variety of colors.
9. Time to start your faux finish (in your case the granite, but you could do marble, too!). I use sea sponges and dab my colors on in random patterns leaving some of each layer showing through. You can add “veins” to it as well, and use a toothbrush to “spatter” some “flecks” across your “rock” surface.
10. IMPORTANT Final step: Seal it up GOOD!!! You need to seal the paint with four (or more) coats of high-gloss non-yellowing oil based polyurethane. I really don’t like using anything oil based but in this case oil based will really last the best. My favorite – non-oil based – is MinWax Polycrylic and it’s good if your counter colors are dark (charcoal “granite” or deep forest green “granite”) but it can sometimes turn any white or light colors yellow.
You’ll need to let your coats/layers cure at least 24 hours between each coat. Building up several layers of sealer to protect your nice new faux granite counter tops. And remember to treat this new counter top just like you would a “real” granite counter. Do NOT cut your veggies right on the surface. Wipe spills up right away and don’t put hot pans on it. Use just mild cleaners to keep it looking brand new.
If you want some REALLY GREAT detailed instructions on doing this project you should definitely check out Debra’s video – Paint Faux 
Marble and Granite. Debra does a fantastic job of showing you step-by-step exactly how to do this whole process. Including some really good tips.
In fact, here is another article about How To Faux Granite Laminate Counter Tops where she shares a couple of those tips with you.
Have fun and remember…your prep work is key!
Get out there and splash some paint around!
P.S. Check this out! Over at Formica you can scroll through their “samples” and get an idea of what colors you want in your granite! They have a lot of different colors of “granite” you can look at. Just go here –> http://www.formica.com/DesignCenter.aspx and then click on the magnifying glass to get a close up look at the colors. Like “Baltic Granite”. It looks like a base coat of a peachy/pink color with some sage green, gray and black on top! Hope this helps you find your perfect color combination.
