Image by hartlandmartin via Flickr

There seems to be a recent revival in faux aging objects…and not just walls.    I mean boxes, lamps, pots, etc.  And as usual the popular “aging” is verdigris.  That’s what happens to copper when it’s exposed to the elements over time.  Copper slowly dulls, then it turns a gray-green (with a hint of black in there, too) color.

Then it gets kinda chalky but the chalky color isn’t just white…it’s a pale turquoise color.  Which is when it’s called a “verdigris”.  When it rains on this aged copper the verdigris will run and create streaks down the copper.

If you have something copper and you want to speed up this process you can use some regular old household bleach.  Paint it right on the copper and leave it alone and you should have a nice turquoise patina in about 24 hours.

But what if what you have is WOOD…or resin…or pottery…or wrought-iron furniture?  And you want it to LOOK like it’s aged copper.  Easy!  You can do this.  First gather up your supplies.  Ready?  Here’s your list:

• Water-based paint in the following colors:

White
Matte Black
Dark Green
Turquoise Blue
Raw Umber

• Plaster powder (used for patching walls) or gypsum plaster (plaster of paris)

• Sea sponges – small to medium sizes work great

• Brushes – Artist brushes 1″ and 2″ and maybe a smaller one too…like 1/4″ or 1/2″

• Not necessary but could come in handy…a chalk bag and a stippling brush or a hake

Now for the “how to” part!

1. First get your sea sponges DAMP. Not soaking wet.  Well, you want to get them soaking  wet and then squeeze them all out so they’re just damp and not dripping.
2. Next – get some “throw away” plastic containers and make up your paint colors.  Make a dark green, a gray…like putty, a milky/pale turquoise blue-green and a dark turquoise.
3. Paint a base coat of white on your object.
4. Over the white paint a coat of the gray putty color. Some black, white and maybe a bit of that raw umber or dark green will be what you need to get that “putty” gray color.
5. Start with the dark green.  Use one of your sea sponges or a paint brush and dab it or pounce it on to your object.  Blend it in to the gray but not completely.
6. While the green is still wet start dabbing on the dark turquoise color.  Blending the two colors.
7. Now you want to use the pale milky turquoise color to lighten up some of the areas.  You can do this by using a dry brush and drag it over the raised area.  This will create some highlights.
8. A good way to add to your “aged” look is to spatter some paint on it.  I LOVE a spatter brush tool for this but you can use a toothbrush or just a fairly stiff artists brush will do.   Use your raw umber or dark green or black here.
9. Now to give it that chalky look.  You can use the chalk bag and pounce on the dry spackle powder or you can dip your stipple brush or hake in the powder and “dust it” on the surface.  I’ve also just taken it in my hand and sprinkled it on…making it heavier in some areas and less so in others.

STOP!

There are two schools of thought here.  Before step 9 if you want to get that rained on look you can water down the white and load it on your sponge and then dab it on the top edges and let it run down the sides.  Or you can brush it on to create the “runs” down the sides where you want them.  OR..you can do step 9 and then take a sponge with water in it and let it run down from the top edges over the chalky stuff.

ALSO…if you want to seal the verdigris you have to do it before the “chalk” step and then apply the chalk immediately!!!  And you don’t want to seal it with a gloss coat.  You want to use matte.

This finish isn’t difficult to simulate and it’s really fun to do.  I love throwing the plaster dust on the surface.  It’s a step that is messy…or can be…but will make you giggle.  Stress buster!  Lol!

You can do this same finish but use browns, brown iron oxide, terra cotta, yellows, etc…for a faux rusty look.  Same thing…same process.

And for those of you wanting the easy way out …there’s a kit!  LOL!    It might be easier but it isn’t as fun…  But…here you go:

Rustoleum Patina Paint Kit

This kit, by Rustoleum is a two step process.  It doesn’t have that “chalky” finish to it but maybe you could still do that while the paint is wet.  ??  I’d try it…but I’m daring like that.  Lol!

In this picture the color of the finish is a bit more green than in the picture I saw at the store.  The one I saw was more of that turquoise blue/green color.  Much better!! 

And as you can see from the pictures on this package people are using it to create a faux verdigris finish on lots of things.  You’re only limited by your own imagination.

Candlesticks, fireplace screens, book ends…  keep going!!

So what are YOU going to give a good patina too?

I am trying to get a venetian plaster look in my house. I wanted to try to use drywall mud to create the texture with deeper / thicker results and I am not sure now how to paint it. Does one have to use the plaster in a can to achieve this look or can I paint over the drywall finish with a product that leaves the darker colors behind and the lighter tones to the surface? ~Rob Paulin

The above picture is of the Old World Plaster Finish that I did a few years ago. www.surfaceswithpaint.com

This is my favorite and most popular finish as a professional. I believe this is what you are trying to achieve with the lighter tones on the surface and the darker tone in the recessed areas.

I prefer NOT to use drywall mud for this finish because you will need to prime it before painting. You also run the risk of moisture getting into it when you start painting, and glazing.

Behr actually makes a texture paint that comes in 2 gallon buckets in both smooth and sand finishes. This can be applied to the wall with either a roller or a trowel. Here are the steps that you will need to follow in order to achieve this finish.

1. Apply Plaster – apply to the wall with a 6″ putty knife, pat the wet plaster with a trowel, and knock down with your 6″ putty knife. This is what gives the plaster pattern & texture.

2. Sand - this step is optional depending on how smooth you want your plaster. I like to spot sand areas where you can see lines left from the trowel. Be sure to wipe away the dust that is left from sanding, with a rag.

3. Paint – you can use any color (light to medium tone). I use 2 coats of latex paint. There is no need to prime with this plaster. Let it dry overnight.

4. Mix Glaze & Paint – This is the fun part. You will need a dark color. Don’t be afraid to pick a dark color, because you will be mixing it – 1 part paint to 3 parts glaze. You will also be washing it off with water, so the glaze will lighten up a lot.

5. Apply Glaze – Use a chip brush and apply in random strokes in a 2 -3 ft section.

6. Wash Glaze In – Have a bucket of water ready, dip a big kitchen sponge into the water, ring out until damp and then wash the glaze into the wall.

7. Wash Glaze Off – Wash out your sponge, ring out the water, and then gently wash off the surface of the wall. The light base color will show through leaving the darker glaze color in the recessed areas of the plaster finish.

I hope this helps. Please keep us posted on how it goes. ~ Dawn

Venetian Plaster Othello

4 Piece Set Plaster Trowel Set

Best Look Faux Finish Glaze

Woolie  Lambwool Faux Appl Tool