by THAT Painter Lady on Friday, February 27, 2009
I can’t tell you how many times people ask me why they can’t do a faux finish over flat paint. So I would like to clarify and share with you why NEVER to use flat paint when doing ANY faux paint finish.
When doing most faux finishes you will use certain tools such as brush, rag, sponge, woolie, etc to manipulate the glaze color so that way the base color can show through. It is very important to have a smooth surface that allows the glaze to be movable.
Flat paint is much too porous. It would soak in the glaze and would not only dry quickly, but it would cause blotchiness in the finish.
If you have a wall that you would like to faux finish but has been painted with FLAT PAINT, then you will definitely need to re-paint with an eggshell, satin or pearl paint sheen.
Recently, I had a reader ask me if they could just use a clear coat over the flat paint and then do a faux finish on top of that, but really this is not a good idea. The flat paint and the clear coat can have an adverse reaction and possibly ruin the base paint. It is also much more expensive than regular paint. You might as well just re-paint with the correct paint and do the job right to start with.
So, for those of you who have considered doing a faux finish over flat paint – please think again. It will not work!
by THAT Painter Lady on Sunday, August 31, 2008
Have you started using environmentally safe paint? Do you know how to find the paint brands that are safe for the environment? How do you dispose of your old paint? Do I have you feeling a bit guilty yet?
Guest writer, Sarah Scrafford asks even more questions:
How many of us realize that the simple act of painting our homes is contributing to the worldwide catastrophe that we term global warming? The very fumes that emanate from our freshly painted walls and make most of us ill are the ones choking the earth and polluting it on a level equal to oil spills and industrial waste. Before you do a double take and roll your eyes in disbelief, let me corroborate my statement with cold, hard facts:
- According to the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), indoor air has three times the pollution that outdoor air has, and is one of the top five hazards to human health with paints, thinners and solvents causing most of the damage.
- Solvents and thinners are made of volatile organic compounds (VOC) that pollute the environment. VOCs are carbon-based chemicals that exist in the gaseous form.
- Traditional paints use thousands of chemicals, most of which are not tested enough for their impact on humans and the environment during long term usage.
- The chemicals and compounds in paints and thinners have been known to cause health problems like headaches, nausea and dizziness and also irritate organs like the eyes, throat and skin.
- Prolonged and high levels of exposure to elements in paint can cause problems in your respiratory system, kidneys and livers.
- Common chemicals found in paints like formaldehyde and benzene have carcinogenic properties.
- Other heavy metals like lead and phthalates are poisonous to both humans and the environment.
- Paints and finishes emit low level toxins (from volatile organic compounds) into the air for many years after their application.
- Exterior applications of paint that are designed to protect buildings from the elements of nature degrade over time and release toxins into the air.
With more and more emphasis on protecting the environment, paint manufacturers are turning to green or eco-friendly paints to save their businesses. These paints score over regular paints because:
- They contain no or very little VOC. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volatile_organic_compounds for definition of VOC.
- They are odorless and safe on the skin and the respiratory system.
- They contain only 250 or less chemicals, most of which come from plants and minerals. Common ingredients are citrus peel extracts, essential oils, seed oils, inert mineral fillers, bee waxes, tree resins, lead free dryers, clay, chalk, natural latex, earth, mineral dyes, talcum, linseed, soy oils, pine and balsam turpene, milk casein and natural pigments.
- Green paints are manufactured using raw materials that are free of toxins, renewable and cause no damage to the environment.
- Their usage reduces contaminants that deplete landfills, ground water and the ozone layer.
- They are water based, which means theyre easy to clean with just soap and water.
- They’re easy to clean up and dispose of once the job is done.
So go green today, and do yourself and the environment a huge favor.
This article is contributed by Sarah Scrafford, who regularly writes on the topic of luxury homes for sale in Florida.
Debra’s Tips -
Compare the VOC content found on paint can labels.
- · The lower the number, the better.
- · A low-VOC paint is less than 50 grams per liter.
- · A zero-VOC paint has less than 5 grams per liter.
The lowest VOC paint is usually latex, rather than alkyd.
Flat rather than glossy.
Lighter in color.
Remember that VOC counts don’t include any colorants added at the paint store.
Make sure to close air vents and open windows when painting to allow most fumes to escape outdoors. Try to let the walls dry and air out for at least a day before use.
Properly dispose of left over paint. Contact your local recycling center or a disposal company for tips.
For help finding environmentally safe paint manufactures that – print out this guide:
http://images.meredith.com/bhg/pdf/LivingGreenPaintGuide.pdf
And if you really need to know all about “going green” here is a really cool book:
Gorgeously Green: 8 Simple Steps to an Earth-Friendly Life
by THAT Painter Lady on Saturday, August 2, 2008
I have a white brick fireplace that always looks dirty. I would like to faux paint it using colors of brown and blue. The surrounding bookshelves are white with brown interior paint. Walls and carpet are beige/taupe at this point. I have never tried to faux finish anything so I am looking for an easy application. ~Carol
Hello Carol,
If you are looking for an easy application, I am not sure if this would count as one. There is really no way to try this out on a sample board first, unless you purchase a few bricks and practice on them first. Follow the instructions below. Once you have your base color figured out, you can then dry brush your glaze colors onto the face of the bricks. If you like brown & blue, you will want to grab a couple different shades of each.
Here are the steps you will need to follow:
1. Pick Colors (in your case a few different shades of blues & browns) You will also need to pick a grout color and use that as your base.
2. Clean the brick thoroughly. Small amounts of soot are not a problem and can be sealed with a good primer. But if the fireplace is extra dirty with soot, then it will need to be cleaned with TSP. Washing the brick helps the primer to adhere better to the surface.
3. Prime – Use a good primer & sealer like Kilz, Bin, or Zinsser.
4. Base coat the surface with whatever color you want your grout to be. A satin or pearl finish would be your best choice.
5. Dry brush each brick a different color. Keep it random to give it a more natural feel. You can also layer the colors on top of one another. This will be the part where your creativity will come in! Play around with the colors. You can even use a sea sponge and dab the color on that way. Be sure to mix your colors with glaze to make the paint more movable. (2 parts paint to 2 parts glaze)
Good luck! That Painter Lady, DAWN
I used this tool on a recent fireplace job and it worked for the Dry Brushing perfectly:
Woolie #100607 Lambwool Faux Appl Tool
photo credit: 19melissa68
