Linda Connolly sent in pictures of her floor in the feed room in her horse barn. This is what she has to say about her painted floor that resembles a horse blanket.
Painted directly onto the Boards. Got the pattern idea from a horse blanket I saw in a catalogue. Just changed the colors to suit my liking. By the way, I used the left over maroon color from the rug in the office. It is not completed in this picture but it is in too tough a shape to take another finished photo of now. And it has been there for about 10 years.
Just regular water based paint and I sketched the pattern on after I applied the base pattern. Just a pencil and an eraser to do the pattern.
Linda Connolly sent me these pictures of the rug she painted in her home office-library-computer room.
Actually it is more like a catch all room. Every time I need to get something out of the way for dealing with later, it ends up in my office!!!!!
The flowers are painstakingly cut out from a roll of floral wall paper. Lots of blisters from the scissors.
Painted Rug Half Way Through The Painting Process
These Florals Are Wallpaper Cutouts
You can find some helpful advice and tips for painting floors here:
http://easyfauxbrick.com/paint-a-kitchen-floor-with-a-black-brick-pattern/
P J has shared yet another spectacular finish!
This time it’s all about using the popular Bronze finish on walls and doors.
“I Just finished a foyer and enclosed some photo’s for you.
It is soooo true, you can’t have a great finish with out the proper prep work, Prep is always key.
I won’t guarantee a job if I don’t do the prep.
These photo’s are of a Marco Island Fl. Condo.
The doors and wood work are Bronze paint and the flat walls were textured with plaster.
Then the walls were painted with the same bronze paint that was wiped over with a flat damp sponge to remove color from the surface leaving the concave areas with a deeper darker hue.
The result is a wall that shimmers as light bounces off of it.
Texture Applied
Bronze Glazed Walls Over Texture
Fauxtastic Dreamscapes LLC
PJ Hoover
Naples Fl. 34102
ph#239-289-6104
www.fauxtasticdreamscapes.com
I have dark wood cabinets in my bathroom.
I would like to lighten them up or even paint them white.
Would it be too much work to paint them white since they are so dark?
Or do you have a different idea to lighten them up & bring them up to present time?
Hi Nella,
I completely understand about wanting to update dark cabinets.
I am not sure how many cabinets you want to paint, but it is a process. Here are the steps you will need to follow:
1. Clean the cabinets thoroughly with soap and water or a non-abrasive cleaner. Let dry.
2. Remove hardware from cabinet doors
3. Remove cabinets doors – This is optional, depending on how good of a job you want to do. Removing the doors allows you to get a smooth finish without smudging between the door and the door frames
4. Lightly sand with a fine grit sanding pad or steel wool. If the cabinets have a clear coat of varnish or polyurethane on them, then you may need to sand a little bit more, in order to get a surface that the primer and paint will stick too.
5. Prime the cabinets with a good primer/sealer.
6. Paint away with whatever color you choose. I would use a semi-gloss paint finish for the cabinets. It has a slight shine, and will look gorgeous.You may want to seal it with a clear coat, but it may not be necessary.
I hope this helps, let us know how it goes. Talk to you soon, That Painter Lady, DAWN
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I’m just confused on applying the paint. I need Sponge Paint instructions.
I have a base satin base already, do I dab the corner of the sponge with paint or all the sponge? And when I’m done with that do I go over it with clear latex paint using a sponge? Or do I Just mix half paint and half clear?
Faux Fun: Sponge Painting Video
Hi!
It sounds to me like you want to sponge paint on your walls, yes? Okay…
You want the surface of the sponge – a good sea sponge – to be covered with the paint. Not just a “corner”.
Have your paint in a shallow pan like a cake pan or you can have it in a paint tray.
1. Dampen your sea sponge. Just damp, not soaking wet.
2. Tap the sponge in the paint then tap the sponge on the tray portion that is “dry” to off load some of the paint.
3. You can “test” the print of the sponge on a piece of paper or posterboard. If only a few specks show up you need more paint. If a “muddy wet print” is left then you have to much paint on the sponge and need to dab off the excess before starting on your wall.
4. Now start tapping your wall. Remember to make random/haphazard taps on your wall and don’t tap in a line.
Overlap and make vine like patterns to avoid straight up and down “lines” of sponge blobs.
Turn your hand left and right to change the angle of the sponge, often, as well.
Make sure to overlap your sponge blobs so they aren’t a single layer, but have depth.
Most importantly, DO NOT work from one side of the wall to the other or your overall/end result will be very patchy looking.
Work the whole wall at the same time.
Think vines or tree branches reaching across the wall. Then slowly fill in the entire surface.
You don’t need to apply a “clear latex” paint to your wall if you are using latex paint to sponge on the wall, but you can.
Wait until your sponge paint has dried completely (like the next day) and then you can simply roll a clear latex (I like Minwax Polycrylic) over the walls.
Hope this is helpful sponge paint instructions! THAT Painter Lady, Tawn.
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