This happens a lot.  You buy a home that someone else has personalized to suit their taste.  Problem is…it isn’t your taste.  So what do you do?  Paint it of course!

Yes, you paint it.  Paint can change anything to be more “user friendly”.    That’s why we LOVE it so much!!  You can even paint Formica!  Check it out.  Here’s a letter from a newsletter subscriber:

Hi, I would love to get the look of dark wood on my Formica cabinets that have been painted white by the owners before me. We don’t have the money to buy new cabinets, and I have seen on TV that it can be done, and looks great. However, I am not sure where to start. Do I have to paint the white cabinets a darker color? Also I found this wood grain brush at Lowe’s for 6 bucks should I buy it. How many colors do I need to buy for the look of a dark wood, with maybe a red undertone. That would look nice. My husband is going to do granite tile on the counter and backsplash. But these white color has got to go! Please help! ~Christina

Man…don’t you KNOW just how she feels?  And wanting to make a change but needing to be budget conscious.  Who isn’t budget conscious these days?  Right?  So here’s what we wrote back:

Christina, you definitely should buy Debra’s video on how to achieve the Faux Woodgrain Finish!  She shows you how in very simple -beginner level – steps.  Here…click on this link: Beginner Guides to Faux Wood Painting. You can read the information there and make the decision on whether or not this is the path you want to take.  There’s a short video there at that site and if you decide to buy the DVD or download you’ll see that it truly gives you step-by-step easy to understand instructions.

What we all know is that the key to any great finish is in the prep work.  So here are a few suggestions on how to prep your Formica cabinets to be painted:

1.  Clean the cabinets thoroughly, using an ammonia-based cleaner. Rinse well and let the cabinets dry.

2.  Lightly sand the surface of the cabinets. This removes any embedded grease and prepares the surface to be primed. Wipe down surface completely to remove all dust.

3.  Tape off everything you don’t want to paint.

4.  Apply a good primer/sealer.  We like Kilz but feel free to use what you know and like.  Use a foam roller and work slowly to avoid air bubbles. Let this dry as directed on the product.

5.  Sand the dry primed surface one time – very lightly.  Again, wipe down the surface to remove all of the dust.

You’re now ready to base coat!

If you want to achieve a dark wood with a red undertones. I would start by base-coating the cabinets a brick red color.  You can then faux finish over that with a dark brown mixed with glaze.  Try it out on a sample board first.  So much easier to test things out on a foam core board first to see what you like and don’t like and get your technique down. 

Also, you can definitely try to use the wood grain brush from Lowe’s. You may also want to try a few other wood grain tools to see what works best and achieves the look you are going for.  Debra prefers a regular paint (artist) brush. 

Good luck with your project and keep us posted on your progress.   Take pictures as you go along and SHARE!

photo credit: Ctd 2005

Faux Wood Painting On Formica

Image by rsambrook via Flickr

Sometimes an idea about a technique is hard to imagine in “real life” terms.  Debra’s written many times about her easy faux wood graining technique and how FABULOUSLY it works on straight surfaces (items without grooves or carving).  But… what if you wanted to create a faux wood grain on a carved or turned post?  Would the same technique still work?
Here is just that question from a newsletter subscriber:

I have purchased a metal bed with “twisted” metal (like rope is twisted) posts with finial tops finished to resemble cherry wood.  I would like to refinish them to resemble oak to match the remaining furniture.  I have read where you suggest using a base of yellow ocher with a burnt umber glaze and a chip brush.  Do you think this technique would work on the twisted metal or do you have other suggestions?

Well…the short answer is “Yes!”

First, Debra suggests priming the metal with a stain blocking primer.  Zinsser’s B-I-N2 Stain Blocking Primer Sealer would be GREAT for this!  It’ll alleviate the worry of any rust or old finish bleeding into the new faux wood grain finish.  Remember…prep work is always key to a great finish.

The base coat is the Yellow Ocher color you mentioned.  You can pick that up at any craft store… even “WallyWorld” should have some in stock.   It’s a color not a brand.  Any brand will do.

For the graining:  remember to use a brown that resembles the darkest brown of your oak grain.  You should check the graining on the other furniture in the room to figure out this color of paint.  You could even hold up paint chips to the other furniture to get it as close as possible.

The brush we recommend you use is a simple inexpensive “chip” brush.  You can get these at any hardware, craft or, again, good ol’ “WallyWorld” store.   The reason we recommend using this style of brush is for the rough texture of the bristles.  And… because it’s cheap!!  That means you can just throw it away after you complete the faux wood graining project.  Three cheers for no cleaning of brushes when you’re done!!! 

Now, the difference in using this technique for turned or carved work is that if you let the faux graining glaze collect in the grooves the furniture will look “antiqued” and not like realistic wood.  So…you’ll need to have a dry, clean, chip brush on hand while you are “graining” your piece.

Use this dry brush to carefully “pull” the extra glaze away from the grooves.  The idea is to get the wood faux graining to be the same throughout the entire piece of furniture.  Don’t let it pool in the crevices and grooves. Use the dry brush to “soak it up” and leave those grooves the same as the rest of the “graining” in tone.

For more detailed instructions on faux wood graining you should check out Debra’s video/DVD.  You can purchase it over on the right side of this page.  You’ll have to scroll down a bit…little further…keep going….it’s after the faux brick video….    OR…you can just click on this handy dandy link:  The Beginner Guides To Professional Finishes – Faux Wood Graining . Thought you might like to investigate it…and we’re thoughtful like that. 

Now ….get out there and SPLASH some paint around. 

Image via Wikipedia

Faux wood graining seems to be the hottest new trend around here these days!   Or… is it just that its hot and we think we need a new faux painting technique to learn?  Lol! 

Either way, another question about wood graining has come in to the “THATPainterLady” desk.

Hi there!  I would like to paint my wood bathroom cabinet.  It is a lighter wood color now, and not very grainy.  I’d REALLY like to paint it a dark mahogany or espresso brown color.  I saw the technique for a mahogany door and I am thinking of trying that.  Do you have any suggestions for a little bit darker finish?  And would the technique be the same on wood? Thanks a lot!
Tiffany

Tiffany!!!  Thanks for the great question!

Wood graining technique is the same for cabinets as it is for the paneled doors, with just a few simple exceptions.  The paneled doors have a “grain” pressed into the panels, so the grain collects in those teeny, tiny crevices and just enhances the grain pattern.

Wood cabinet doors are usually very smooth, so the wood graining with the brush takes a very light touch with the brush. You are going for tiny little grain lines.

I would use the same colors as the mahogany but you will be adding another layer.

This layer will be a thin…I mean almost sheer glaze and the graining should be heavier.  These layers give a lustrous depth and the graining patterns will be pretty realistic.

Of course there is a DVD is on the market.  Faux Wood Techniques DVD with over 45 minutes of hands on training.  Of course… the teacher is one of your favorites – That Painter Lady DEBRA!!    Debra will show you step by step how to get the most FABULOUS faux wood finish.  She doesn’t use a graining tool, but a brush to get those wood grains so amazingly realistic!

So if your having problems with your graining….need a little guidance… some helpful hints… Help is available —>

Wood Grain Painting Video

Anyone else has any helpful tips for Tiffany?  We love to share helpful hints & tips, so… leave a comment!

Get out there and splash some paint around!

Do you have “old” cabinets you’d like to refresh? Everyone still wants to make changes in their homes but in this economy who can afford to rip out and put in new?  It isn’t hard to change up your old dark cabinets at all.  A little paint…some new hardware and ShaZAM!  Gorgeous new cabinets!  Well…new looking, right?

Here’s an email from a newsletter subscriber:

Hi Tawn,

I have dark wood cabinets in my bathroom.  I would like to lighten them up or even paint them white.  Would it be too much work to paint them white since they are so dark?  Or do you have a different idea to lighten them up & bring them up to present time?

Thanks for your help!   Nella

I completely understand about wanting to update dark cabinets.  I’ve had my share of “cave” bathrooms because the cabinets were soooo dark!!    It doesn’t really matter how many cabinets you have to paint they’ll all need to be “processed”.  It isn’t hard…its the standard “prep work” that makes your project turn out FABULOUS!

Here are the steps you will need to follow:

1.  Remove all the hardware from cabinet doors – yes, the hinges, too!

2.  Clean the cabinets and doors thoroughly with soap and water or a non-abrasive cleaner.  Make sure whatever you use to clean the cabinets with does not leave behind any sort of oily residue.  Scrub them good, rinse them twice and then let them dry.

3.  Now you need to lightly sand the doors and the cabinet with a fine grit sanding pad or with some steel wool.  If your cabinets have a clear coat of varnish or polyurethane on them, you’ll have to sand them a bit more in order to get the surface ready for your paint. 

4.  Time to wipe them clean again.  Take a damp cloth and wipe the cabinets and doors clean of any dust from the sanding.  Let ‘em dry again. 

5.  Time to PRIME!  Use a good quality primer/sealer like Kilz, Bin or Zinsser.  Let your primer dry for at least an hour before the next step.

6.  Paint away with whatever color you choose.  Its best to use a semi-gloss paint finish for the cabinets.  It has a slight shine, will look gorgeous, AND it makes it easy to clean finger prints and “stuff” off the surface if it gets on there.  Whatever you do – DON’T USE FLAT PAINT!

7  You may want to seal it with a clear coat, but if you use a semi-gloss it may not be necessary.  If you want this extra layer of protection you’ll want to lightly sand the surface of your fresh paint (after it’s dried for a day), wipe it clean and then brush on a coat of MinWax Polycrylic.  Or whatever product you prefer.  I just like Polycrylic!    It comes in different sheens so you can pick the one you want.

8.  Now it’s time for some new hardware!  Or you can just put back the ones you removed.  Depending on the look you want and the hardware you have in your bathroom there are LOTS of options for you to update your look now.  Want hammered metal?  Shiney chrome?  What about a brushed nickel?  Or even glass?  My son likes the oil rubbed bronze ones.  The options are limitless.  You can find new knobs and hinges at a hardware store or even at Target, Wal-Mart or Sears!

Have fun with your project.  It’s easy to update your look any time you want and as often as you want. It just takes a little scrubbing and some paint!

Now get out there and splash some paint around!

P.S.  Found this cool book on painting furniture I thought you might like to look at, too!

This book is more for the home decorating or home improvement person rather than a crafter.  It takes the approach of creating cool decorative furniture for your home rather than creating art work on a piece of furniture.  It doesn’t require any artistic skill or weird materials or tools.  AND it has COMPLETE step-by-step PHOTOGRAPHY for all 50 painting techniques, surface embellishments and faux finishes for your furniture!

Another good option?  Debra’s FABULOUS Wood Graining Video!  Get rid of those dark cabinets and turn ‘em in to golden oak or maybe you want a rich mahogany!  You can do it with Debra’s Beginner Guides To Professional Finishes – Faux Wood Grain.  Eassssyyyy Breezzzyy!! 

Call for help with Faux Wood Painting. It’s always fun to see what you come up with to “stump” THAT Painter Lady. You know… you haven’t stumped me yet.

Dear Debra, …..HELP!

I need some pointers as to how to create faux wood wainscoating on a wall that has the original wainscoating covered with plaster.

Removing the plaster is too difficult and dirty. The original chair rail is still in place.

HELP! Judy

Hi Judy… what a problem! And a bit comical… I mean, you are asking how to re – create what used to be on these walls and was covered over. Now you want it back. It’s probably a lot more funny to me, than it is to you… you have to do all the work. :-{

Anyway… my first thought was, “why wouldn’t she cover with new wainscoting?” I am assuming that wainscoting is too “thick” to add another layer to these walls.

So… on the the Faux Wood. I think with a bit of plaster and paint… you can pull this off.

You can spread a thin coat of plaster on the walls and “score ” in the wood paneling effect. This is definitely something that would take patience but not overly difficult.

Preserving this thin layer won’t be much of a problem, as long as the under layer is prepared to accept the plaster.

Now… here comes the fun part. The Faux Wood Painting is easy… really easy to achieve.

There are a few tricks and a few cheap tools you will need.

It’s all explained on this faux wood graining video:

Faux Wood Painting Video

Good Luck…. Debra THAT Painter Lady

Click Here To See Paintable Faux Beadboard Wallcovering