Ask THAT Painter Lady A Question

Hello, & thanks for this opportunity to ask a question.

I just painted my bedroom an uncomfortable shade of yellow: It was supposed to by icy-looking (name: Yellow Shimmer”), but the green in it is too heavy-handed, & overall the shade is too dark for the room. I’d like to lighten this shade up, & at the same time tone down the neon look.

Have never faux-finished anything before. Is there a glaze I could use to effect the change I’m after? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also, any source for paint additives, since even Lowes & Home Depot in my rural area doesn’t offer glazes.

BTW, I prefer off-shades, especially in pastels.

Regards,
Nica in Big Bend WV

Hello! We are wanting to paint our kitchen two shades of red (like brick and fire) with a faux finish, like a marble look. What is the easiest way to create this? We just did a beautiful gray sponge technique in our livingroom and want a little different texture in the kitchen. (We used a washcloth saturated in the glaze color to sponge…it was much easier than the cheesecloth they say to use!). Thanks for your help!

Hi! We just did a Tuscan Faux finish in my Living Room and I feel like the glaze looks really streaky. (you can see the lines where it was put on)We used a neautral tan base coat and a Chocolate brown over the top. Is there any way to fix this?? We didn’t use an oil base glaze and I know it moves around more…could we re-texture the walls with the base over the glaze and wipe with a rag to get a more uniform look???

Thanks…Erica

Hi,
I really messed up my bedroom and painted it petal blossom it looked peach in the store, but not it seem more pesto pink and it is to say the least UGLY. I painted over a purple paint, but need something to tone this stuff down, any helpful ideas which aren’t too expensive? And easy. I am not that great with a paint brush.

I just painted a bedroom one coat of SW “Rustic Adobe” and it turned out to be a vibrating orangey instead of a warm earthy color. It seems that different light bulbs accentuate or decentuate the orange but can’t tell which will tone it down the most. I’m about to paint the second coat and wonder what I can mix into the second gallon of paint to make it less orange and more earth tone when I’m done. Thanks!

Hi Debra
It was so strange when I got your most recent email today.
I have been wanting to paint my kitchen cupboards since moving into our new home two years ago. I finally bought the paint on the weekend and was just thinking of writing to you for suggestions, when your kitchen cabinet email came in.
The cabinets are solid wood and I have purchased an antique white. My problem is that the cupboards are just a solid door. There is no character…..ie trim, routered edges, indented areas. Nothing but a flat surface with handles. Do you have any suggestions of what I could do to the doors to make them more interesting after painting. A friend of mine suggested crown molding around the top level. Which is possible and I am most likely going to take her advise. I am now wondering about the actual door itself. Also, I am bouncing back and forth between removing the doors to paint them or leaving them in place. I know that it would take longer to paint with the doors on, but am worried that they may not be as secure if I removed them and replace them after painting.
Thanks for your time. I love your website and enjoy reading your emails.
Jen

Hi Debra,
It’s always fun to read what you are up to as well as your readers. In reading about distressed kitchen cabinets, I thought I would let you know a process I have had great success with.
I have done this application on wood that has been stripped of old paint (my 1920’s kitchen cabinets) as well as unfinished furniture.
First, paint the clean wood with a flat paint. (I know, it’s against everything you’ve ever been taught.) When dry, sand the furniture lightly and the areas to be distressed such as the corners, around handles, etc.. down to the bare wood. Vacuum to clean.
Next, choose a stain to compliment the paint. What I mean by this is, don’t choose a yellowish stain to go over blue paint as you will come up with green cabinets. I learned this from experience and had to restrip all of my kitchen cabinets and start again. Over the blue, I used a walnut stain and diluted it with paint thinner. The sanded distressed areas will take the stain extremely well and the painted areas will be antiqued beautifully.
Finally, I use a water based protective coating. This finish has lasted over 20 years and still going on my 1920’s cupboards.
Just thought I would share my success. I hope it helps someone else. Next, I’m thinking on trying a cream base and diluting blue paint instead of the stain.
Thanks Debra for all your time in keeping us informed.
Cheryl B.

What would be the best kind of faux finish to use on textured walls in a childs room? I would like to tone down the too bright pink on the walls.

I painted an accent wall above my fireplace red. Not sure about what color glaze to use for a faux finish. Should I use a gold glaze?

Hi Painter Lady!

I just bought a home that was built in 2005, and it has a heavy knockdown texture. I’ve seen pictures of strie faux finishes and I really like the look of it, but I dont know if its possible to do on the texture of my walls. Please advise!

Thanks,
MammaBri